Kyoto is such a beauty when it comes to Autumn season. Make sure to be there around November and you can see the bright yellow, orange and red maple leaves glancing in front of your face. There are many places to visit but my recommendation fall to several places, including Ohara, Shugakuin Imperial Village, Nijo Street (its just beautiful in autumn), and Arashiyama - Kameoka route on train. Today, though, I am sharing you my Ohara story. Ohara is on rural town located in the mountains of northern Kyoto. It took an hour or so from Kyoto. The easiest way to get there is by catching a bus from Denmachiyanagi station, in front of its Eizan line sta. Traveling by bus up to the mountain brings pleasure as well, with the red scenery all through the mountain.
It was two years ago the first time I visit. I was there with Nancy and Gilly, only to catch up with Hisashi and the rest of IR friends later the day. We headed to Sanzenin, a temple beautiful for its autumn garden. Like a kid having a new toy, I was strolling the small alley up to Sanzenin with my mouth open. Taking pictures after pictures. Played with dried maple leaves, making a scene as if I was in the some romantic H(B)ollywood movie. LOL. Just asked Nancy how creepy I was that day, bothering her for picture request only because she had a professional camera. hehehehe...
We headed to Sanzenin and later to Nanzenin temple, two main attractions of Ohara. Sanzenin's garden view in Autum in splendid! You just want to sit down and not wanting to leave. But trust me, the interesting story lies just beside Nanzenin. There is a small tea house, just small and modest enough for you to skip it. But at that time, Hisashi told us that he was there and we can meet him there. So we decided to come in and found that he could not be found anywhere! But the blessing is just around the corner. There, we heard of a story of the lost samurai from the caretaker of the house, right after we finished our tea drinking.
During the chaotic time leading to Meiji Restoration, Kyoto was the center of revolt and change. Samurai clans from Chosu, Satsuma and Tosa lead the revolution to re-enact the Emperor as the supreme leader of Japan and thus replacing the already-weak shogunate. The clash between pro-Shogunate and pro-Imperial forces is generally called the Boshin War and the battle occured in Kyoto is best known as Fushimi Battle (鳥羽・伏見の戦い).The battle itself started on 27 January 1868. It occured all over Kyoto, but for me to learn it later, the tragic story also happened in Ohara.
During the series of battle in downtown Kyoto, pro-Tokugawa forces experienced many defeat. Many of the samurais were forced to flee Kyoto and some of them headed to Ohara. There, they again cornered by the pro-imperial forces that later resulted in many of them committed suicide, locally known as Seppuku or internationally known as hara-kiri. In this small compound in wide Sanzein temple, 370 people committed seppuku. According to the caretaker, the battle was so fierce and large in scale that it made the corpses in Ohara left unburied properly for many days after the mass seppuku. As the result, it left the mark of human body in the floor of the house after a series of cleaning. We can still see the trace of eyes and nose mark in the floor. To pay the respect to the descend, it was decided to pull the floor for the roof instead. So, if you point your eyes to the roof along the hallway, you can still see the trace even its quite difficult for untrained eyes (and a bit of scared soul) like myself. So, if you ever had a chance to visit Kyoto in Autumn, have some spare time to visit Ohara and witness yourself the beauty of this mountain side and the telling story of Fushimi battle.
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