Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts

Monday, November 2, 2015

Travel2Turkey: Ancient Surprises in Pamukkale


My journey in Turkey continued with a short trip to Pamukkale, famous for its white salt hill. To get to Pamukkale, we headed to Denizli which is the closest town. We arrived by bus from Konya after more than 6 hours ride on Kontur bus. It was midnight when we reached Denizli but seriously I need to ask the bus operator in Turkey whether they put some kind of sedation in the bus because I slept the whole time I was on the bus. Not only on the ride to Denizli but also from Keyseri to Goreme and return. 

We tucked into our hotel which is right behind the bus station. It was a great choice because it is so easy to reach the bus station and train for that matter. There are many hotels in the surrounding so variety of choices are there. 

In the morning, we made our way to Pamukkale using the dolmus or minibus. Cost us 3.5 lira to go to Pamukkale on 15 minutes journey. When we reached there, a guy from tour gave us all sort of options including paragliding. I decided not to take it. Not because I was petty with money or something but I just had a hunch that I would rather pass that. Paragliding cost my travel buddy 200 lira, although I learned later that people can get 150 lira offer even. 

I made my way from Pamukkale centrum to the site. Passing through the natural park, I reached the entrance of Pamukkale heritage site. The admission fee is 25 lira. 

That's the start of an amazing journey of falling in love to Pamukkale and Hierapolis.

Upon admission, I saw a white valley. Do I need to climb that? For real? Oh well, they said that climbing the travertines (it has a name!!) is the most annoying part of the journey. But not for me!! I found climbing it fun. It hurt my feet, yes, but it was all worth it. All shoes and slippers but be taken out and feet will have it natural massages. The travertines are like cold white marbles but later on top, the water running over it is warm. Of course, because that's why people are bathing on it's travertines. It's like terraces of mineral warm water where people put their feet or their body, their choice. 


Reaching on top, all I wanted to have is an ice cream. So I got myself one, got 3 scoops of stracitella, banana and black mulberry. Life is good.

So I continued to sit overlooking the travertines for hours. It's that serene and beautiful. Then I started making my way round. The travertines are everywhere apparently. Not only where I hiked. Sadly, most of them are not passable. Not that I complain really coz all of them are extremely beautiful and rather unearthly. 

Heading west from where I climbed, I found the real treasure (at least for me). The ruins of ancient city of Hierapolis. No one told me that on top of Pamukkale is an ancient city! Dated during Roman - Byzantine era (around 3 century AD), this city was a piece of art. A majestic for me. 

Imagine this, a city on top of the hill. Blanketed in clouds, and showered with sun. What a joyful life it must had been for the citizen of Hierapolis. Living in such a place. Then things started to struck me because not only this city was located in amazing place, it had majestic city landscape. 

I started off with the Frontinus street. The long street was paved away nicely after the Byzantium Gate. Pillars were erected on the side while a latrineo with more pillars were put right next to the street. Tried walking on the street and I felt like walking during the Roman Empire in Athens. People walking pas the gate in their white outfit, washed their feet on the bath and headed to the city center. 

My dream came true. My childhood saint seiya dream majestically came true. And the sun seems to be smiling. 

I continues my journey in the city by passing the Bath Basilica. The bath basilica is located outside the city for the people to clean and purify themselves before entering the city. Those who was not clean could not enter the city. What a system, isn't it? And to think the system was put in place thousands years ago blew me, confirming how advanced the Romans were. 

Passed bath basilica is the graveyards. Some tombs near the basilica were big, guessed it probably for the important people. The graveyard is big, as I went deeper into it. It gave me chills actually and I literally immediately made my way back to the city. I am a coward that way.

But like a good citizen that I am, I passed the old route. Bath basilica then Byzantium Gate then going pass Frontinus Gate before walking again on the Frontinus street. Sadly, the street leads to nowhere, perhaps unlike the old days. So I turned my feet to the paved roads that leads me to the center of Pamukkale. There, Pamukalle archeological museum lies majestic. The museum is the best place to know the history of Hierapolis and its priced artifacts. Admission fee is required but totally worth it. 

Behind the museum complex is a swimming pool, a modern one. Which I kinna despise because it is so modern it doesn't fit the place. So I dissed that and made my way to top, where the theatre stands magnificently.

(Oh the climb to the top exhausted me! I need to get back to the gym for realsies) 

Then that rush of emotion washed over again once I reached the top and put my feet on the theatre. I stepped into what I would call the gladiator scene. It's grandeur atmosphere, the stage with pillars and the gladiator arena. I felt like coming back to a movie scene. And now I know why in those movies, the spectators and audiences are equally esthetic over a bloody game. That rush of emotion and adrenaline is what I felt the moment I sat down there.  


Then I met Esma, a lady from Anatolya who came to Pamukkale on one-day vacation. She told me that Turkey has similar places like this in Ephesus, Izmir, Ankara and Anatolya. You gotta be kidding me right? That means I need to travel again. Yet, I am glad I will go to Ephesus and Izmir on the next journey. Ankara and Anatolya can wait. 

I walked around the theatre and admiring its construction. Very well thought of. On the bottom is somewhat gladiator rings with 3 gates. What struck me is the stage. As if this theatre was also for play, musical or dance performance. I learned later that the citizen of Hierapolis loved festivals and glad to know gladiator game was not the only enjoyable game. That stage had another purpose and it was a good one. 

The sun set rather quickly so I need to get myself down before dark. I had to pass the travertines again. I didn't want to slip or whatever because of dark. So with heavy heart, I left. But I left with a happy feeling. That my dream of living an old Roman day finally came true. 

Saturday, October 31, 2015

Travel2Turkey: Magnificent Cappadocia


More than 60 weeks ago, I first learned the name of Cappadocia. Thanks to my Yeonseok who posted a picture of floating air balloons on his trip to Turkey. Since then, I kept that one dream of coming to Cappadocia and climbing on that hot balloon myself. 

It finally came true. 

But not after a series of glitches in my travel planning. The somewhat-disaster started when we realized that Keyseri, our hotel's location, is good one-and-half hour away from the balloon ride. It made the plan disturbed because the balloon ride usually started at 4-5 in the morning. Bloody 4-5 AM. How could I get there from Keyseri in time? 

But before I could even get the solution, I was tripped with second glitch. I missed the flight from Istanbul to Nevsehir. The traffic was really bad, even switching to metro ride didn't help. We wasted 80 lira and much more. So upon coming to the airport, we looked for an alternative flight to Nevsehir that day. None. Yet, the travel agent said there is another flight to Keyseri instead at 00.50. Hey! That's where our hotel is. So, we decided to take it. An hour smooth flight and I passed out quickly after reaching our hotel. Only later I learned that should we did not miss our flight, we will be homeless for that night. Keyseri is 1,5 hour by bus from Nevsehir airport. Ugh you expedia!! 

Kabooom.. Hotel in Keyseri gave us another headache as it has no way of arranging our balloon ride. So we decided for real that we need a hotel where the action is going aka Cappadocia central. Hahahaha.. What the heck is central? That's how I called the balloon ride. Apparently, it has a name. A valley city called Goreme. 

Goreme is a house to the caved houses and all that is cave. It's a cave city. Almost everything are made out of a cave. Hotel, houses and later I learned, old churches. It's magnificent really, how human being can carved out cave to make it a home. No wonder there's a cave period and seriously it looks pretty now. Flinstones, you're real! 


The first thing we did in Goreme is walking through the city. Seriously that's the best thing we all can do. It's hilly terrain, the cave houses just took my breath way. Yet, there is nothing as breathtaking as watching the sunset on top. Goreme is kind enough to show the way to sunset point so we are all good. From atop, Goreme looks like sea of whites, a valley city. Everything is in a bowl, surrounded by mountain of rocks. It's just pretty. Period. 


The balloon ride the next morning confirms just how majestic Cappadocia landscape is. We were picked up at 5.15 AM, had our breakfast before riding the balloon. The ride cost us 110 USD, for a 20 people balloon ride. So imagine how pleased I was to find that the ballon ride was only for 9 people! Hupla horray!! 

The ride was a smooth sailing although at times I thought we will hot the rocks. It was not cold up there. Instead, all is a wave of happiness and awesomeness. We saw from above the sunrise, Cappadocia's mountains of caves, Goreme air museum, love valley, and of course, other balloons that made the sky pretty. I am lucky to have a clear sky ride, not windy and surely not rainy. If someone asked me to do it again, I will say yes in a heartbeat. 

Upon landing, we were presented with non-alcohol champagne and a medal. Kya!! We toast for a great life a head and thank for the blessing that we had in life. Cheers!! 

During the balloon ride, I have decided that I wanted to go to Goreme open air museum. An open air museum was a foreign term for me because museum is identical to big closed building with air con and all sorts. So I was ready to embrace this new concept of open air museum. 

Goreme open air museum is actually a 11th century Church complex. The museum houses 12 churches that are the living witness of the glory of early Christianity in Turkey. All churches are located inside cave, which made it even more magnificent. Carvings and wall paintings beautify each churches. It amazed me still how they painted and how the pictures last centuries. I probably should credit the clarity of paintings to the handy restorations but the paintings itself blew me away. All of them were on the walls, dome and pillars. All are beautifully painted and designed. I am glad that none of the visitors are allowed to take picture because flash can destroy it. 


The whole journey over the museum took me an hour and upon exit, I found out that open air museum is more of my kind. I hope that there will be more in Turkey and Greece because I am completely loving it. Goreme open air museum is 20-30 minutes walk from centrum (depends on your speed of walk really and your ability to walk uphill). Admission is 20 lira.

When I finished the museum, I still got few hours before leaving back to Keyseri. There's a direct bus or shuttle so no need to go to Avanos or Nevsehir. So I strolled around the shops downtown and bought alot because they offered so much better price than Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. Everybody who came to Turkey and Cappadocia should get their souvenirs in here rather than Istanbul. 

Also in Goreme, I finally tasted the food that looks like Raviolli I saw in Istanbul. It is called Manti and it is indeed ravioli, Turkish way. It has stuffed meat inside. Served with tomato sauce and yogurt, one serving is more than enough for me. 

With full stomach, lots of gifts, and happy memory, I left Goreme with a happy feeling. A 63-weeks dream came true and much more. 

Lesson learned:

  1. Cappadocia is not a city, it's an area. The city where all the good things happen is Goreme, Uchisar, or Urgup. 
  2. Book hotel directly in Goreme or Urgup or Avanos. Never Keyseri or to some extent Nevsehir 
  3. Fly to Nevsehir if hotel is located in one of the three places above
  4. Careful in booking the balloon provider, they gave different price. If you want to book online, book in your country to avoid any credit card hacking. 
  5. Balloon ride depends so much on wind speed and weather. When travel blog advises you to come before October, they have their reason. October onward, the weather for balloon ride is not favorable. We were lucky indeed to get it on the only day we were in Gerome. 

If you ask me whether I want go go Cappadocia again, I will say YES in a heartbeat.